SC300 vs. 240sx Options

[Tom.]

Okay, so a few of you know that last week I picked up a Lexus SC300 to replace my last string of daily drivers I got bored of and let go. Well, this one I think I'm going to keep, I actually really like the feel of it, automatic or not.

I'm switching to Stance GR+ PRO coilovers Thanksgiving weekend and am curious if I need to do anything extra.

Example: With the 240, I had to rip out the fender liners and roll the lip of the fender up to even think about clearing the Rotas, much less anything else in the world. Also had to tuck the harness up against the top of the fender by removing the fender, etc. etc. However, everything was very easy to access in the front and rear as far as installation.

Is the SC300 going to be the same? Very easy to install, etc. Will I need to address any fender issues or harness tucking problems? I plan on running some Cobra reps, Varrostens, or something of the sort within the near future. Car is the '95 model with the 2JZ if that means anything.

Thanks in advance,
Tom

[Elegant Company]

I've never worked on an sc300 before, but I have heard of some common issues with them.

Things like the instrument cluster bulbs going out, worn door hinges, and worn suspension bushings. Remember since this is a luxury car they have twice the amount of suspension bushings as say a 240. I would recommend replacing all of those as well.

As for the harness I found this write up in about 10 seconds. hope it helps

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-400-300...relocation.html





check out both Zach's sc300's on this forum. they're radical

[Zach]

The best way to do the harness is unplug it and re-run it through the engine bay. That is how I did mine, and I'm pretty sure that bitch Zach Triggs (<3333) did it that way too.

Not sure how low your looking to go, but pound shit out also.

Common Problems:
Door Hinges
Trunk Shocks
Cluster Lighting
Climate Control unit bleeding/going out
Bushings
Passanger door clip breaks and won't open from the outside.


Basically, everything that's wrong with my car.

[Tom.]

The best way to do the harness is unplug it and re-run it through the engine bay. That is how I did mine, and I'm pretty sure that bitch Zach Triggs (<3333) did it that way too.

Not sure how low your looking to go, but pound shit out also.

Common Problems:
Door Hinges
Trunk Shocks
Cluster Lighting
Climate Control unit bleeding/going out
Bushings
Passanger door clip breaks and won't open from the outside.


Basically, everything that's wrong with my car.

Door hinges are just replaced by Toyota.
Trunk shocks lulz, speedo light lulz, climate bleed, lul
Bushings just replaced
Door clip is winning.


I feel better than average already, lol. Power locks are failing on me now though, not enough force to lock the doors, but they lock manually...hmmmm....


Thank you for the link to harness relocation, definitely bookmarked, not sure what plugs I need to remove, but I'm sure when I get after it I'll figure it out just fine. What kind of fender modification have you guys had to do to clear wheels? Don't want to roll unnecesarily and kill the stock lines if I don't have too. Going with a near-zero offset +0 up to +15 is what I'm aiming for, 18' most likely.

Also: What is the maximum wheel width before I start running into shock bodies and whatnot? One set of wheels I'm considering has an 11" wheel and I'm not sure of the maximums for front and rear.

[Zach]

Door hinges are just replaced by Toyota.
Trunk shocks lulz, speedo light lulz, climate bleed, lul
Bushings just replaced
Door clip is winning.


I feel better than average already, lol. Power locks are failing on me now though, not enough force to lock the doors, but they lock manually...hmmmm....


Thank you for the link to harness relocation, definitely bookmarked, not sure what plugs I need to remove, but I'm sure when I get after it I'll figure it out just fine. What kind of fender modification have you guys had to do to clear wheels? Don't want to roll unnecesarily and kill the stock lines if I don't have too. Going with a near-zero offset +0 up to +15 is what I'm aiming for, 18' most likely.

Also: What is the maximum wheel width before I start running into shock bodies and whatnot? One set of wheels I'm considering has an 11" wheel and I'm not sure of the maximums for front and rear.

I'm running 18x10.5 +0 on my car front and rear. Had to do a shit load of work in the rear. As for the front, It sucked also.

[slammedZ32]

remove everything, scrape sound deadening, replace seats and carpet, straight pipe, WIN. obnoxious+luxury=trolling

[Tom.]

So I dropped the car off for some work to be done, and picked it up and now my sterero doesn't work.

I get very little to no sound from my speakers, but they are all omitting sound. However, it refuses to switch to CD player, and even turned all the way up my car produces little to no sound.

So obviously they're responsible, but I'm trying to figure out what it is as I want my damn car back and don't need them fishing around everything and wasting both our time.

Have you guys dealt with that?

[etikoner]

Speak to the manager.
Depending on if it's a big shop or a big shop they'll help you out.

[Tom.]

Yep, they immediately denied any fault, so I took apart the door in front of them and pulled out the crimped speaker wires and fixed it. My CD changer is still fucking shot and they still won't do a god damn thing about it, so it's w.e.

I have a head unit, sub and amp at my house and found out the car is already pre-wired so I'm just gonna do that. Done with the fuckery, I will miss my CD changer though.